Nestled in the heart of Saint-Tropez, Place des Lices stands as a testament to the authentic Provençal spirit that still beats strong beneath the town’s glamorous veneer. This historic square, where locals have gathered for centuries, offers visitors a genuine slice of Mediterranean life that feels worlds away from the yacht-filled harbor just a few blocks away.
A Historical Journey Through Time
Dating back to the 16th century, Place des Lices (originally called Place de la Gendarmerie) has served as the social nucleus of Saint-Tropez. The name “Lices” comes from the medieval tournaments and games once held here, derived from the word “lice” meaning “tournament grounds.” Today, the square remains just as vital to local life, though the activities have evolved from medieval jousting to rather more peaceful pursuits.
The Famous Market: A Feast for the Senses
The bi-weekly market (every Tuesday and Saturday morning) transforms Place des Lices into one of the French Riviera’s most captivating shopping experiences. Here’s what makes it special:
- Operating hours: 8:00 AM to 1:00 PM, with the best selections available before 10:00 AM
- Over 120 vendors during peak season (summer months)
- Authentic Provençal products including locally produced honey, olive oil, and lavender
- Fresh seasonal produce from nearby farms
- Artisanal cheeses and charcuterie
- Handcrafted textiles and traditional Provençal fabrics
The Iconic Plane Trees
Perhaps the most distinctive feature of Place des Lices is its canopy of century-old plane trees. These majestic giants provide welcome shade to visitors and locals alike, particularly during the scorching summer months. The trees create a natural cathedral ceiling over the square, under which you’ll find the traditional pétanque players going about their daily games.
Pétanque: The Heart of Local Culture
No article about Place des Lices would be complete without mentioning pétanque. This traditional French game, similar to bocce, is played daily by locals under the plane trees. Statistics show that over 40 regular players gather here each afternoon, some of whom have been playing in the same spot for more than 50 years.
- Best time to watch: Late afternoon (4:00 PM – 7:00 PM)
- Local tournaments held regularly throughout summer
- Visitors are often welcomed to join in friendly games
- Equipment can be purchased from nearby shops
Dining and Café Culture
The square is surrounded by some of Saint-Tropez’s most beloved establishments:
- Café des Arts: A historic café frequented by artists and celebrities since the 1960s
- Le Sporting: Famous for its breakfast service and people-watching opportunities
- L’Aroma: Offering authentic Italian cuisine with a Provençal twist
Practical Tips for Visitors
To make the most of your visit to Place des Lices:
- Visit the market early (before 9:00 AM) to avoid crowds and get the best produce
- Bring cash as many market vendors don’t accept cards
- Book restaurant tables in advance during high season (July-August)
- Consider visiting in shoulder season (May-June or September-October) for a more relaxed experience
- Park at the nearby Place des Lices parking garage, as street parking is limited
Summary
Place des Lices represents the authentic heart of Saint-Tropez, where centuries-old traditions continue to thrive alongside modern café culture. While the glittering superyachts and designer boutiques may draw visitors to Saint-Tropez, it’s places like this historic square that reveal the true character of this former fishing village. Whether you’re shopping at the market, watching a pétanque match, or simply enjoying a coffee under the plane trees, Place des Lices offers an authentic Provençal experience that shouldn’t be missed during any visit to Saint-Tropez.